Driving the Amalfi Coast: Is It Worth It? (Our Honest Take)

Driving the Amalfi Coast is one of the most romanticized road trips in Italy, with cliffside views, colorful towns like Positano and Ravello tumbling down to the sea, and the freedom to stop wherever the view demands it.

At least, that’s the promise.

We’ve been to the Amalfi Coast twice. On our first trip, we got around entirely by public bus, and it went badly. Buses ran late and/or failed to show up, which really impacted how much we were able to see and do.

It wasn’t until our second trip to the Amalfi Coast that we rented a car. Our visit was in October and we drove the entire length of Amalfi Drive. Driving gave us a level of control we never had on the bus. But that doesn’t mean it was relaxing.

Here’s what driving the Amalfi Coast is actually like, and our honest opinion on whether it’s worth doing yourself.

The Essentials

LENGTH | About 50 km (31 miles), from Vietri sul Mare to Positano

DRIVE TIME | Roughly 2 hours without stops or traffic

BEST TIME TO DRIVE | Mid-October through April, outside the license plate restrictions

DIFFICULTY | Narrow, winding, and congested — stressful even for confident drivers

LICENSE PLATE RESTRICTIONS | Yes, for rental cars during peak season (details below)

PARKING | Very limited in towns; expect to walk 1–2 km from where you park

ALTERNATIVES | Bus, private driver, or boat/ferry

Table of Contents

What is Amalfi Drive?

Amalfi Drive, also called strada statale 163 Amalfitana, or SS163, is the main road that runs along the Amalfi Coast. It is roughly 50 km long and without stops or traffic, it takes about two hours to drive the entire length of this road.

With its views of dramatic cliffs plunging into the aquamarine sea, dotted by colorful coastal towns, this drive has been labeled as one of the most beautiful in the world.

Due to its immense popularity, it is also one of the most congested roads in the world, particularly between the months of June through September.

About Our Experience

Driving the Amalfi Coast has long been on our bucket list…ever since planning our honeymoon several decades ago, when our travel agent painted a glorious picture of a memorable scenic drive along one of the most beautiful coastlines in the world. We honeymooned in Hawaii by the way, not Italy.

We didn’t make it to Italy until 2014 and our visit was in July. We heard horror stories of parking issues in the summer, so we chose to get around by public bus, since we were traveling on a budget.

In 2022, we planned our visit for the end of October, as the Amalfi Coast heads into the off season and traffic is much lighter. On this trip, we drove the entire length of Amalfi Drive, finally crossing it off of our bucket list.

Having done this drive, and using other modes of transportation, we learned that there are much better ways to get around the Amalfi Coast than renting a car and driving it yourself. For more details, check out our guide on How to Get Around the Amalfi Coast.

However, I totally get it if it is something you want to do. Just so you are prepared, here is what to expect if you plan to drive the Amalfi Coast.

The Amalfi Coast

Is it Worth Driving the Amalfi Coast?

For most visitors, we don’t think driving Amalfi Drive yourself is worth it. Between the narrow roads, the constant stream of oncoming traffic, buses, scooters, and pedestrians, and the limited parking once you arrive, it’s simply not a relaxing way to see the coast, even during the quieter months.

That doesn’t mean the alternatives are stress-free either. Our first trip here, we relied entirely on public buses, and it was a disaster: a no-show bus, a scrambled backup plan, and a shoving match just to get on the ride home. Driving gave us something the bus never did, which was control over our own schedule. We just traded one kind of stress (crowded, unreliable buses) for another (narrow curves, constant vigilance, and hunting for parking).

If you do want to drive it yourself, we recommend only doing so between mid-October and April, when traffic is lightest and the license plate restrictions aren’t in effect. Outside that window, hiring a private driver is the better trade: you get the same flexibility as driving yourself, without needing to watch the road every second.

For more on that comparison, see our guide to How to Get Around the Amalfi Coast.

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What to Expect Driving the Amalfi Coast

Driving the Amalfi Coast can be described a lot of different ways, depending on the source.

Some people call it one of the most beautiful drives in the world. Others describe it as a white-knuckle drive or one of the most dangerous drives in the world.

The reality is that driving the Amalfi Coast is frustrating, a bit stressful, and not all it is cracked up to be. Yes, there are gorgeous views along the way, but don’t expect a beautiful, stress-free drive where you can relax and enjoy the views.

There is hardly a straight stretch of road on the entire drive. With numerous blind turns, you run the risk of hitting an oncoming vehicle that crosses the center line. And since Amalfi Drive has so many twists and turns, this can be a nauseating ride for those prone to motion sickness.

Amalfi Drive is just wide enough for two cars. At many places along Amalfi Drive, long lines of cars are parked on the shoulder, shrinking this already narrow road.

On the drive, you’ll meet oncoming cars that cross into your lane, giant buses that take up some serious real estate on the road, and hundreds of drivers on motorcycles and scooters weaving in and out of traffic.

And then you have tourists and people walking along the roads, taking photos, and sometimes they are completely oblivious to what is going on around them.

It feels as if you are constantly dodging cars, buses, people, cyclists, and motorcycles. And we did this in October, when traffic was relatively light.

We saw a lot of this…cars parked along the road and partially blocking one lane of traffic, and cars frequently crossing the center line just before a curve in the road.

One thing to be aware of is that a thick barrier, either made of concrete, rock, or metal railings, runs along the length of Amalfi Drive. Driving off the road and plunging into the sea is not something to worry about on this drive. But you do need to be prepared to dodge all of the moving obstacles along the road.

During the summer months, when visitation on the Amalfi Coast skyrockets, long traffic backups on Amalfi Drive are a daily occurrence, causing travel headaches and huge delays getting around the Amalfi Coast. At times, these backups can be up to 6 km long!

An alternating license plate system has been instituted for rental cars, to limit traffic.

PRO TRAVEL TIP: You can avoid some of these hassles by taking the bus or hiring a private driver. But the buses and private drivers will still have to sit through these backups. Consider traveling by boat or ferry in the summer.

Cars and motorbikes parked along Amalfi Coast Drive.

Alternating License Plate System

To help manage traffic, an alternating license plate system (targhe alterne) has been in place on Amalfi Drive since 2022. It applies only to rental cars. Vehicles belonging to residents, taxis, and buses are exempt. So are scooters and motorcycles, which is worth keeping in mind if you’re weighing your options for getting around.

How it works:

Rental cars with a plate ending in an odd number can’t drive on odd-numbered days. Cars ending in an even number can’t drive on even-numbered days.
The restriction covers the full length of the SS163, from Vietri sul Mare to Positano: the entire drive, not just a short stretch of it.
It’s enforced from 10:00 am to 6:00 pm. Outside those hours, any vehicle can drive freely.
The exact dates shift slightly each year, but the pattern holds: daily during Easter week and the Liberation Day/May Day holiday bridge in spring, weekends and public holidays only from June through July, and daily throughout August and September.
Separately, and year-round, any vehicle longer than 10.36 meters (34 feet), including anything towing a trailer, is banned from 6:30 am to midnight.

If you’re staying overnight at a hotel or other official accommodation on the Amalfi Coast, you can typically still arrive and depart on your scheduled dates even if your plate doesn’t align with the restriction, but confirm this with your hotel before you go.

PRO TRAVEL TIP: You won’t know your rental car’s plate number until you actually pick up the car, so there’s no way to plan your driving days in advance. Confirm the current rules with your hotel or rental company once you’re there, and check here for updated hours and restrictions before your trip.

Parking on the Amalfi Coast

Driving Amalfi Drive can be slow going and stressful. And then to actually do anything (go to the beach in Positano, go shopping in Amalfi, visit the villas in Ravello), you have to find a place to park your car.

Parking is extremely limited in the towns. Even in the second half of October, parking lots in some towns were completely full, so we had to park in a nearby town and then walk a kilometer or two to get to our desired destination.

In the summer, good luck! Scoring a parking space in Amalfi or Positano is like hitting the jackpot. Most likely, you have to park well outside of town and then walk 1 to 2 km along the busy road to get into town.

The Amalfi Coast is one of the windiest roads we have driven.

How Hard is It to Drive the Amalfi Coast?

You don’t need any special driving skills to handle Amalfi Drive. It’s paved, well-marked, and technically no harder than any narrow mountain road. What it demands is patience and constant attention. There’s rarely a moment where you can relax and admire the view; between the blind curves, oncoming traffic drifting over the center line, and pedestrians wandering into the road, you need to stay alert every second.

If you do decide to drive, rent the smallest car you can manage. A compact car buys you a few extra inches when squeezing past buses, and makes parking less stressful.

Amalfi Coast Drive

Other Ways to Get Around the Amalfi Coast

There are plenty of other ways to get around the Amalfi Coast and we have done them all. Get more information in our guide How to Get Around the Amalfi Coast.

During the summer months, consider getting around by boat. This could be on a ferry (the most economical), small group tour, or private boat. If you are looking for a splurge, we highly recommend hiring a private boat. You can travel up and down the coast at your leisure, visit hidden caves and private beaches, and travel faster along the coast than you can by car or bus.

Getting around by bus is the cheapest way to travel along the Amalfi Coast. But lines to get on the buses can be long and the buses will get stuck in the traffic jams, so keep that in mind. A private driver is another way to go. It’s more expensive but it is a more convenient way to get around the Amalfi Coast.

There are no trains that run along the Amalfi Coast. You can get to Sorrento and Salerno by train, but from these cities, you will then have to take a bus, car, taxi, ferry, or boat to get around.

Plan Your Amalfi Coast Trip

Weighing your options for getting around? → Our Best Way to Get Around the Amalfi Coast guide compares driving, bus, boat, and private driver side by side.
Traveling from Rome? → Our How to Travel from Rome to Sorrento, Capri & the Amalfi Coast guide covers train, car, and transfer options.
Deciding what to do once you’re here? → Our 15 Best Things to Do on the Amalfi Coast guide covers the towns, beaches, and boat trips worth your time.
Planning the rest of your Italy trip? → Our Italy Travel Guide covers Rome, Florence, Venice, Tuscany, and more.
Renting a car for this trip? → Our Things to Know When Renting a Car in Europe guide covers insurance, license requirements, and other essentials.

If you have any questions about what it is like driving the Amalfi Coast, or if you would like to share your experience, let us know in the comment section below.

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Learn about driving the Amalfi Coast, is it worth it, rules and regulations, important things to know, and more.